Relaxed Rose Gardening
This week roses are definitely on my mind. I am awaiting the arrival of a bare root rose my son ordered for me for Christmas. I am so excited – I still don’t know which one he chose!
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| Could it be Pierre de Ronsard or Eden rose? This was on my wish list |
In everything I try, I am what I call an enthusiastic amateur – so any advice or tip I may share I have gleaned from those who I admire and who have proved themselves to be knowledgeable in their field.
Most of us who garden want roses. Rosarians who tout specific ways to plant and care for roses can intimidate some rose gardeners. I was one such timid gardener. I have learned however, take a deep breath, relax, know the basics and give it a good try. Roses are pretty hardy and if they’re healthy to begin with will survive our some time mistakes. Just learn from these mistakes and go on.
Roses are to enjoy.
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| The Columbus Park of Roses was awarded America's Best Rose Garden in 2010. You can find a searchable list of Rose events on the American Rose Society website. |
The first tip I would share would be to know your growing zone – the first and last frost dates. Caring for your roses can be dictated – not liking that word in a ‘relaxed’ post – but it fits- by these dates.
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| A GIS map can be found here where you can locate your cold-hardiness zone down to the county level |
Location, location, location.
Roses need at least 5 to 6 hours of sun daily.
Choosing an open area is most ideal.
For some roses, filtered afternoon sun
–especially in the heat of the south – is ideal.
Prepare a good bed for your rose.
Soil preparation will make a great difference in the health and the vigor of your roses. Know your soil. Here in the south we have a variety of soil challenges – there’s a divide in our county – sandy areas and clay areas. Amending both these soils with organic material will bring the needed nutrients and allow for proper drainage. Amend your soil early will also allow the growth of micronutrients – one thing you will learn –
roses don’t like wet feet (roots).
Follow planting instructions for the roses you receive –
bare root – soak then prepare a wide hole creating a conical mound in the center for the roots to rest upon. The depth of the rose depends upon where you live – whether the grafted union is soil level or above. Here in the south it can be above. Bring the soil back around the rose – holding it as you do until there’s enough for it to stand without support. Add some water and allow it to drain. Add more soil then more water.
bare root – soak then prepare a wide hole creating a conical mound in the center for the roots to rest upon. The depth of the rose depends upon where you live – whether the grafted union is soil level or above. Here in the south it can be above. Bring the soil back around the rose – holding it as you do until there’s enough for it to stand without support. Add some water and allow it to drain. Add more soil then more water.
What is the key to happiness in a garden? Mulch.
A several inch thick layer of mulch applied 2 or 3 times a year means fewer weeds, less water stress, less heat stress, richer more fertile soil and healthier plants. You may use decomposed bark, pine needles, peat moss or any weed-free material.
A several inch thick layer of mulch applied 2 or 3 times a year means fewer weeds, less water stress, less heat stress, richer more fertile soil and healthier plants. You may use decomposed bark, pine needles, peat moss or any weed-free material.
The right cut – pruning.
This is where most rose gardeners may become intimidated. Remember, healthy roses are forgiving and roses need pruning. Cutting back roses encourage new growth, this is when knowing your last frost dates is important –if you prune too early, encourage growth prior to the last frost, there could be damage to the new growth.
This is where most rose gardeners may become intimidated. Remember, healthy roses are forgiving and roses need pruning. Cutting back roses encourage new growth, this is when knowing your last frost dates is important –if you prune too early, encourage growth prior to the last frost, there could be damage to the new growth.
Here, it is a good thing to know your rose. Is it an old rose, a climber, a tea rose, a one-time bloomer or a repeat bloomer. Pruning will be different for each type.
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| options to pruning Tea Roses |
Old roses do not require the stringent pruning other roses may require. Old or Heirloom roses bear roses on branches formed the previous year. Pruning after blooming is ideal. The basics to pruning is – timing, remove dead or damaged canes, deadhead and shape to allow for air circulation and pleasing structure.
Climbers – are not true climbers in the sense of clematis or wisteria – climbers need support. Good twine or raffia is a good choice to secure your rose’s canes. Wrap the twine or raffia in a figure eight around the support and the cane will provide a neat support. Spring pruning is an ideal time when the canes are more supple and can be trained into the shape you desire. Right after the first flush of flowering is the ideal time for major pruning of climbers to work on thinning and training the rose’s structure.
With Teas and Hybrid roses, early spring is the ideal time to prune. You should work with the natural shape or pattern of growth of that rose. Roses that bloom repeatedly through the summer and fall bear flowers on new growth therefore an early to mid spring pruning encourages maximum new growth. In warmer climates such as California and Florida a very early pruning in January or February is ideal.
Don’t over care where you prune, but know that placement of the pruning gives you differing results. Pruning off the tip of a cane can stimulate growth just below the cut. Pruning above buds that face outward from the bush’s center encourages your rose to make a more expansive, healthier framework of branches.
Feeding your rose.
While reading Celia Thaxter books I found she relied heavily on manure. She did her winter rose care – applied a generous amount of manure around – not touching – the rose then in the spring spread this manure to the edge of the rose’s branches.
Other nutrients-materials you can use include – products specifically formulated for roses – or a home-made fertilizer composed of two parts bone meal, one part rock phosphate and four parts wood ash.
Knowing your area also includes knowledge of pests and disease. With our heavy humidity in the summer, I contend with black spot. Bayer has produced a comprehensive fertilizer/disease treatment that is applied to the ground and becomes systemic to the rose. You can use other – natural remedies as well. Know that when you have black spot take care to remove yellowed leaves on the bush and those that have fallen. Clean your pruners as you cut so as to not to spread the disease.
In our area Japanese Beetles are our pests. They attack in the summer – my treatment is to visit the roses in the morning with a cup of soapy water. I tap the bush encouraging the bugs to drop into the soapy water. I am not a fan of the hormonal treatments – to me they attract more bugs to my garden. Proper treatment of the soil specific for grubs help take care of these pests in that stage.
Tools you will need in caring for your roses include:
gloves – long, leather ones (gauntlets)
gloves – long, leather ones (gauntlets)
help protect you from the rose’s thorns; pruning shears, bypass shears –which cut like scissors make clean cuts and don’t crush the stems; loppers allow you to cut thicker canes; a pruning saw allows you to cut old, wooden canes.
This winter, if you haven’t done this already, is a good time to care for your tools. This is what I do. Check for loose screws, clean with sand paper, sharpen, sterilize with alcohol and apply oil to prevent rust.
1. Leather gloves
2. Pruning shears
3. Loppers
4. Pruning saw
5. Gauntlets
The most important thing is to relax, enjoy your roses they add so much to your garden and to your home. I believe they also add to your well-being. Their beauty and fragrance fills our hearts and minds – lifting our spirits.
